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Email required Address never made public.Then, the sleeve seams were sewn, as well as the side seams.Search River Island Search.They had the major tasks of not just making a hand-sewn dress, but making a recreation of the Isabella dress, which definitely meant stepping outside of comfort zones and figuring out how to recreate some oddities.I mainly took some pictures of the details.
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The fabric was specially made for this project, woven by Prickly Thistle.They studied the original fabric, counted the threads, and made a lovely reproduction.In the end, they added a couple of strategically placed threads to ensure the fabric was at least as wide as the original.The fabric had not been stretched, so had to be mangled a bit to ensure everything was lying straight and on grain.During two days, the dress was sewn completely by hand.I learned so much from the interactions alone, and it was lovely as well to meet all the other interested people in the audience! The first step was cutting the skirts, and the front of the bodice and shoulder straps.After this, the back was cut, and the sleeves and cuffs.All cutting was done based on measurements and the previously fitted linen lining.The first bits of sewing was the main skirt seams aside from those to the back panel, as that ran into the bodice , and attaching the lining to the front of the bodice.Then came the cuffs, which were pleated, and then lined, and the sleeve seams were basted.The final thing to do on the first day was to pleat the back.Here, the original was followed as closely as possible.Checking pictures of the original when pleating the back.Day 2 started with the first fitting.First, the front and back were put in place on the body, and then the shoulders were loosely pinned.The main focus here was to fit the side seams, where the lining of the front was pinned to the back.After this, the sleeves were fitted.Then, the sleeve seams were sewn, as well as the side seams.As the side seam initially goes through the lining of the front only, the front is then folded over top, and top-stitched in place.Simultaneously, the skirt was pleated so it would fit the bodice.Folding over the front of the bodice to be top-stitched to the back.Then came the second fitting, in which the skirts were fitted, and the sleeves set.The sleeves were pinned to the bodice in this fitting, and the cuffs were set.Fitting the skirt to the bodice, ensuring a level hem.The final steps were to set the sleeves, sew on the skirt and cuffs, and fix the shoulder straps in place! One of my favorite things about witnessing the whole process were all the little quirks of the original dress which came to light.On first glance, it looks like a fairly typical 18th century dress, but this recreation highlighted a couple of oddities.Firstly, the style of the dress, which is actually relatively old-fashioned.The wide back-pleats and winged cuffs are typical of the s and s.However, the green deye used was patented in , which makes the family story of it being Isabellas wedding dress in very likely.Some construction choices were also unusual.Both the front and back of the dress were cut on the straight of grain, while fronts were usually cut on the bias to form around the body better.It also features tilted lacing strips sewn to the inside, which is uncommon especially the angle.These might have been there to help keep the bodice smooth around the body.The sleeves of the original were also set a bit unusually, in that they were caught in the back underneath the outer pleat.This shows that the pleat was stitched in place after the sleeve was set.The final oddity in construction was the skirt attachment.Usually, skirts are pleated and then seamed to the bodice.But in this dress, the pleats are first folded over, whip-stitched to keep the fold, and then stitched to the bodice through all layers.This creates quite a bit of bulk in that seam! The original dress.You can see the sleeve being caught in the back pleat, and the tiny stitches at the top of the sleeve, holding the lining in place.The sleeves are taken in at the top, indicating that they were originally too wide.There is some piecing at the bottom, so they were also a bit too short.This was recreated in the new dress.Finally, the original also show that the lining of the sleeve was a bit too short, as it does not go all the way to the shoulder.The original shows a little line of stitching at the top of the sleeve, catching the lining in place.Georgia showing what it was like trying to lift her arms before the slits in the sleeve were caught.A little slit hidden under the cuff fixes the problem! At the end of two days of hard work, figuring out how to recreate the oddities, stitching seams, and answering our questions, the dress was done! Well, very nearly, as some final sewing to the shoulder strap had to be finished after the museum closed and we had to leave.But it was enough done to show us the final project, and they finished up the dress that same evening! I loved attending this event, learning more about this dress, and 18th century dressmaking in general.Seeing every step of the process really helps understand how these gowns were put together, and also puts into perspective how much work goes into it! If it looks quick from this overview, keep in mind that there were 7 experienced dressmakers working on this for two days! 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And ironically, that would mean that the process of making the dress would be different from the original.So instead, the team aimed for a recreation.They had a model with them, and the dress was cut and fit to her.Some care was taken to replicate some of the quirks of the original, but in the end, no two bodies are the same, so the recreation is a little different from the original in some ways.The first day, the first step was to cut the fabric.The fabric was specially made for this project, woven by Prickly Thistle.They studied the original fabric, counted the threads, and made a lovely reproduction.In the end, they added a couple of strategically placed threads to ensure the fabric was at least as wide as the original.The fabric had not been stretched, so had to be mangled a bit to ensure everything was lying straight and on grain.During two days, the dress was sewn completely by hand.I learned so much from the interactions alone, and it was lovely as well to meet all the other interested people in the audience! The first step was cutting the skirts, and the front of the bodice and shoulder straps.After this, the back was cut, and the sleeves and cuffs.All cutting was done based on measurements and the previously fitted linen lining.The first bits of sewing was the main skirt seams aside from those to the back panel, as that ran into the bodice , and attaching the lining to the front of the bodice.Then came the cuffs, which were pleated, and then lined, and the sleeve seams were basted.The final thing to do on the first day was to pleat the back.Here, the original was followed as closely as possible.Checking pictures of the original when pleating the back.Day 2 started with the first fitting.First, the front and back were put in place on the body, and then the shoulders were loosely pinned.The main focus here was to fit the side seams, where the lining of the front was pinned to the back.After this, the sleeves were fitted.Then, the sleeve seams were sewn, as well as the side seams.As the side seam initially goes through the lining of the front only, the front is then folded over top, and top-stitched in place.Simultaneously, the skirt was pleated so it would fit the bodice.Folding over the front of the bodice to be top-stitched to the back.Then came the second fitting, in which the skirts were fitted, and the sleeves set.The sleeves were pinned to the bodice in this fitting, and the cuffs were set.Fitting the skirt to the bodice, ensuring a level hem.The final steps were to set the sleeves, sew on the skirt and cuffs, and fix the shoulder straps in place! One of my favorite things about witnessing the whole process were all the little quirks of the original dress which came to light.On first glance, it looks like a fairly typical 18th century dress, but this recreation highlighted a couple of oddities.Firstly, the style of the dress, which is actually relatively old-fashioned.The wide back-pleats and winged cuffs are typical of the s and s.However, the green deye used was patented in , which makes the family story of it being Isabellas wedding dress in very likely.Some construction choices were also unusual.Both the front and back of the dress were cut on the straight of grain, while fronts were usually cut on the bias to form around the body better.It also features tilted lacing strips sewn to the inside, which is uncommon especially the angle.These might have been there to help keep the bodice smooth around the body.The sleeves of the original were also set a bit unusually, in that they were caught in the back underneath the outer pleat.This shows that the pleat was stitched in place after the sleeve was set.The final oddity in construction was the skirt attachment.Usually, skirts are pleated and then seamed to the bodice.But in this dress, the pleats are first folded over, whip-stitched to keep the fold, and then stitched to the bodice through all layers.This creates quite a bit of bulk in that seam! The original dress.You can see the sleeve being caught in the back pleat, and the tiny stitches at the top of the sleeve, holding the lining in place.The sleeves are taken in at the top, indicating that they were originally too wide.There is some piecing at the bottom, so they were also a bit too short.This was recreated in the new dress.Finally, the original also show that the lining of the sleeve was a bit too short, as it does not go all the way to the shoulder.The original shows a little line of stitching at the top of the sleeve, catching the lining in place.Georgia showing what it was like trying to lift her arms before the slits in the sleeve were caught.A little slit hidden under the cuff fixes the problem! At the end of two days of hard work, figuring out how to recreate the oddities, stitching seams, and answering our questions, the dress was done! 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